THE OFFAL TRUTH

True carnivores don’t stop at the top-of-the-line, priciest cuts, they know that some of the greatest pleasures run deep.

Even casual gourmands can be found picking at some pig liver country pate at their local bistro, or even getting a bit recherché with the fois gras or some delicately prepared sweet breads. But for those uninhibited gastronomes for whom big flavors are the name of the game, liver, kidney, tongue, and heart are all as prized as any ingredient.

Offal may need a little more finesse in the skillet than say cooking a steak, but Heritage goat and lamb, especially, offer incredibly profound treats — we love lamb’s liver cooked in sherry and served with garlic mashed potatoes, hearts braised or grilled with chimichuri sauce, and of course, the classic kidney pie.

Europeans have known these secrets for years, but even the more timid Americans are catching on that eating off-cuts is the key to truly sustainable, nose-to-tail dining, and discovering a brave new world of bold flavors that pair with rustic Old World wines, and, especially in colder months, are a cherished as part of the feast. As with so much of the food world, what’s old is new again!

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