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"I turn to this recipe — adapted from the French chef Madeleine Kamman, who died in the summer of 2018 — when cool weather is on the horizon. Perhaps it’s the dried fruit or chicken braised in a sauce (instead of being striped on the grill) that appeals to the season. But it’s an easy winner for those first dinners when fall appears. Though plumped raisins are called for, other dried fruit, like diced figs or quartered prunes work well, too." — Florence Fabricant
"Slow-braising to infuse meats with deep flavor and produce warming, stew-like plates of food is a cooking method of choice when the weather brings a chill. This chicken dish is the product of what I call the usual three-step affair (brown chicken, add other ingredients and some liquid, cover and slowly simmer). But I gave it a bit of heat, unpacking sake, ginger, garlic and the spicy Korean condiment gochujang, plus well-mannered slivers of poblano chilis into the pan. You can now find gochujang in supermarkets or online; you won’t use the entire jar for this dish so exploit it for other occasions. It keeps indefinitely in the refrigerator. The chicken will welcome a pillow of steamed rice alongside." — Florence Fabricant
"This recipe brings together leafy herbs, the whisper of sweetness in fresh corn and summer squash, a ripe tomato, and a splash of lemon, creating a salad with farm-stand allure. It is served it with chicken paillards, and the meal would go great with a bottle of dry German riesling." — Florence Fabricant
"This chicken casserole is simple to prepare, yet stunning and a trifle unusual to serve. The addition of whole clusters of seedless grapes elevates it from easy everyday to dinner-party material. I based it on two recipes: the memory of a chicken dish that I ate many years ago in Toulouse, France, and the classic poulet au vinaigre, or chicken in vinegar sauce. A mellow, aged sherry vinegar and a high-quality balsamic complement the grapes. I prefer a 15-year-old balsamic, which replaces the smidgen of tomato that is often included in poulet au vinaigre. One final tip: Be sure the grapes you select — and they can be black or green instead of red — are sweet and have green stems, an indication of freshness." — Florence Fabricant
"This French-inspired chicken dish isn’t exactly weeknight fare, but it is sophisticated comfort food that is well worth the effort. First, boneless chicken thighs or breasts are pounded into cutlets, marinated in garlic, lemon juice and thyme (up to 6 hours, but even a short sit will do nicely), then breaded and fried. They are then dressed in a rich yet delightfully piquant sauce of mushrooms, shallots, garlic, Dijon mustard, white wine and balsamic vinegar that is a welcome contrast to the richness of the fried chicken. Serve with a crisp green salad (and a potato gratin or pommes Anna if you're feeling particularly ambitious). If you’d prefer to fry the chicken 30 minutes or so in advance and keep it in the oven at 175 degrees, that’ll work beautifully. As for what to drink, this dish pairs perfectly with the pinot noirs of the Côte Chalonnaise on the southern end of Burgundy. Bon appétit!" — Florence Fabricant
"The goal was compatibility with Israeli white and red wines and also with a Passover Seder menu. It was a simple one, achieved with dark meat chicken, which goes with either choice and can stand up to slow cooking. I made a pesto with escarole. Among Ashkenazi Jews the bitter herb, or maror, on the ceremonial Seder plate is usually horseradish. But for Sephardic Jews, it is usually a green vegetable like escarole, which Ashkenazi Jews may sometimes include. I spread the pesto on the boned thighs, then enclosed the filling. Matzo meal encouraged a golden crust. The chicken needs no tending during the Seder service. It's a good idea to pray for leftovers, because the chicken, sliced into rounds, is delicious for lunch." — Florence Fabricant
"Priorat, near the Mediterranean coast of Spain and a stone’s throw from Barcelona, produces wines with dark fruit flavors, spice, bold complexity and ample alcohol. To compete with reds like these, the food alongside must take no prisoners.It would have been simple enough to sear some rib-eyes, lamb chops or lusty sausages. But I looked across the Mediterranean to North Africa and came up with a tagine in which chicken is coated with robust spices and becomes more than mere white noise. Eggplant and olives round out the dish, and a splash of sherry vinegar brightens the sauce.If you have yet to equip your kitchen with a genuine terra-cotta tagine, you can cook the dish in a covered sauté pan or a fancy-pants tagine of enameled cast iron." — Florence Fabricant
"Start with a chicken, cut up and ready to sauté, and it’s easy to follow many routes to a finished dish. Here the meat is bathed in a sauce with a musky, chile-fueled bite that is made to behave by plump, sweet prunes. But the dish could also use a vehicle for its abundant, complex sauce. Mashed white or sweet potatoes, soft polenta, tender white beans or plain steamed rice would all be suitable choices." — Florence Fabricant
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